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Discovering Friends Who Once Were Strangers in Tok, Alaska

On May 24th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 4 Comments

The coldest place in North America

It’s late afternoon Saturday when we arrive in Tok, the last town in Alaska before crossing over the Canadian border.

Making a stop at Three Bears for a few groceries, we’re appalled by the exorbitant prices. This makes Homer’s grocery costs look cheap!

Selecting a few necessities, we also take advantage of the restroom facilities.

While in Fairbanks, we’d looked up where a local congregation of our church was meeting – Eagle River. Greg asks the checker how far it is from Tok.

“It’s about 80 miles north of here.”

Oh boy. We aren’t heading north, we’re headed east.

So he asks the man if he knows of another branch in Tok itself.

“One of the leaders of your church lives in town. His number’s in the paper.”

Sure enough we open the newspaper and locate his phone number. Greg calls him up, tells him we’re passing through, and wondering if there was a place to attend church tomorrow.

“Church is held at our house. Why don’t you come over here tonight and you can stay at our place.”

He gives us directions and we head south out of town passing roads with names like “Moose Nugget” and “Borealis”.

Locating their home – a quaint house in a pine forest clearing, fronted by a square, wooden corral with two large and hairy draft horses – we’re welcomed in, to the warmth of a fire in their wood burning stove.

We talk. The transformation from strangers to friends ensues. They share their story, we share ours. We connect with commonalities, learn from our differences.

Parents of ten children (four still at home), home schoolers, and tough Alaskans, we’re inspired by their spirit, strength of character and authenticity.

I’m also fascinated to discover new information – like that Tok is the coldest place in the United States – averaging -60 below, with a record low of -75 below Fahrenheit.

I learn about the ‘critical’ forest which surrounds Tok and which is on the brink of a massive forest fire that would destroy the whole town, and how they’re instead using those trees in a bio-mass fuel project that heats the entire high school.

It’s getting dark – which in Alaska means it’s late – we make up beds on their futon and on the floor, then settle into sleep.

We’re up early, and scuttle out to our truck for church clothes, shivering in our winter coats as a cold wind blows, despite the sunshine.

Our host saunters out to feed his horses while we’re hastily digging through our truck. He’s wearing a t-shirt.

“Ahhh. We don’t get many mornings like this,” he comments.

Alaskans are grown tough.

Breakfast is hearty pancakes made from freshly ground whole wheat flour with home made syrup.

Bellies full, we dress and help prepare for the meeting to be held.

An hour or two after I thought it would start, other families finally begin arriving – six or seven in all – many with tattoos, some single, others married, a couple of teens, a few more children, some empty-nesters, all with a smile and a welcoming hand.

Our host conducts, then invites others to share their thoughts and feelings. There is an atmosphere of warmth and sharing that connects us to each other. I’m moved by the stories shared as I recognize our common humanity – we love, suffer, exult, cry, laugh and live, regardless of location or personal history.

After the meetings a couple with young children invite us over for lunch. Reluctantly bidding our new friends goodbye, we follow directions along roads cut through timberland.

Their home is located on forty acres of forest, a charming log home with a guest cabin.

A scrumptious meal is served over engaging conversation. The children play perfectly together.

Stories and adventures are shared. A game of spoons in the sunshine, exploration of a nearby pond – a lunch invitation turns into dinner then an overnighter as our fast friendship strengthens.

The week previous this was covered in snow, so they said.

Spoons in the sunshine

Any signs of life yet?

Spunky, crazy girl!

She has started a trend

One of the sweetest fruits of wandering is the discovery of friends who were once unknown – strangers – but ‘kindred spirits.’

The transitory nature of our meeting intensifies the rapport, and hastens the connections.

Knowing that soon we’ll say goodbye ensures that the marrow is sucked out of each moment. The ‘adieus’ give rise to great encounters.

In the morning we bid a sad farewell, sweetened by expressions of admiration and affection, and warmed by a mantle of friendship.

Photo Essay: North Pole, Alaska

On May 19th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 6 Comments

Amazon.com Widgets

After exploring Fairbanks, we continued along the Glenn Highway toward Tok, Alaska – our planned stop for the night.

Along the way we stopped off at the North Pole – North Pole, Alaska that is.

Santa was on a seasonal break, but we got to visit his reindeer and sit in his chair.

The whole town gets into the spriit of the North Pole - from street names...

light poles...

to retirement centers. (I even saw the St. Nicolas Catholic Church)

This santa at an RV park was taller than the telephone poles

This is where you can see Santa during the summer season.

His reindeer were on site

Christmas music played merrily as we entered The Santa Claus House

A fun furry friend

The reason for the season was not forgotten

My little elves in Santa's chair

Say 'North Pole'

Photo Essay: Fairbanks, Alaska

On May 17th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 6 Comments

Amazon.com Widgets

Anchorage seemed so ‘big’ (granted it only has a population of 275,000, not much compared to major cities – but a lot compared to the population of 5,400 we were used to after living a year in Homer).

We were a little intimidated and overwhelmed by it all. We spent a lot of time driving around lost, and a lot of time driving around looking for a place to ‘camp’- and not much else.

So after finishing the errands we needed to do, we hightailed it out of Anchorage.

Fairbanks on the other hand seemed a little more manageable. With a population of only about 30,000, it had more of the ‘small town’ feel, although still good size.

We really enjoyed Fairbanks and explored a little more, and met some awesome people who invited us in to their home for the night, where we enjoyed a shower, laundry, internet and a movie with popcorn – a real treat! (Thanks again O’Neils!)

Our first stop (after more errands) was the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center

It was fun to find this stack of guides about Homer with a photo in them by yours truly.

A display of 'life in Alaska' showed log cabins, bears, dog sleds, smoking salmon and more cool stuff.

The collection of handiwork by Native Alaskan tribes was really fascinating. The intricate beadwork and ingenuity is incredible.

We discovered free public internet, so we took advantage of it to look up some information. While we were distracted, these three wandered outside and entertained themselves in the fresh snow melt

Back and forth, back and forth - their feet must be frozen!

Next we did some driving around downtown Fairbanks.

This is a very 'cool' attraction - they do an Ice Festival in the winter.

A memorial to the original inhabitants or the interior of Alaska

The University of Alaska in Fairbanks has a large animal farm with reindeer...

and Musk Ox

After viewing the musk ox, we visited Pioneer Park – a shopping/historical district that includes a playground, miniature golf, and historical artifacts.

Although most of Pioneer Park was boarded up, this is a pretty happening place during the summertime, with TONS of fun and cool stuff to do.

This is the train car which U.S. President Woodrow Wilson road in on his visit to Alaska

The steamboat Nenana used for transporting goods in the 1930's and 40's

Many original cabins were transported here to recreate a frontier village.

During the summer this original cabin actually sells ice cream.

The kids LOVED the playground (of course)

Atlas loved to ride the horsie

A train runs around Pioneer Park from this Railroad Museum during the summer

Totem poles are so fascinating. Originals carved by Alaskan Natives sell for $75,000 +

Driving Alaska: A Pictorial Journey Through the Last Frontier – Parks Highway Part 2

On May 12th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 7 Comments

Continued from Driving Alaska: A Pictorial Journey Through the Last Frontier – Sterling Highway Part 1

From Anchorage we took the Parks Highway to Fairbanks (~30,000), stopping to view Mt. McKinely in Denali National Park. This highway is fairly remote, and there was still a significant amount of snow along most of the terrain.

Very few towns, stores or other services. The highlights were Wal*Mike’s and Mt. McKinley.

Still winter in Alaska

Your local Wal-Mike's

Not an uncommon sight in rural Alaska

The first reindeer we've seen

Majestic Mount McKinley - she could be seen above the mountains from 150 miles away

Mt McKinley Resort

We had to turn back to get this unexpected shot

Things to Do in Anchorage, Alaska

On May 11th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 5 Comments

Portage Glacier is Alaska's most viewed glacier due to it's close proximity to Anchorage.

Compared to the population of 5,400 that we’d grown accustomed to while living in Homer for the last year, Anchorage was ‘huge’ with a population of ~275,000.

Honestly, we were a little overwhelmed and intimidated by it all. So despite original plans (and due to the cold night time conditions which were fast becoming a catalyst for increased travel speed), we spent only a day and a half in Anchorage.

Most of that time was spent driving around lost trying to accomplish necessary errands (like grocery shopping), and the other time was looking for a place to ‘camp’ in close proximity so that we could finish some errands in the morning.

After all the aggravation, and another cold night camping, we hightailed it out of Anchorage once the needed chores were complete.

(See more about Driving Alaska: A Pictorial Journey of the Last Frontier)

Here’s what we would have done in Anchorage under different circumstances:

Portage Glacier -

We did actually visit this one. Located just south of Anchorage, it’s Alaska’s most viewed glacier. During the summertime, you can take a cruise to view the glacier up close. We explored the banks of the glacial lake – the ‘foot print’ of this massive mound of ice and snow.

View the Photo Essay of Portage Glacier

Kenai Fjords Tour -

Another one we actually did. Not in Anchorage, but worth doing if you’re in the Anchorage area. The cruise leaves from Seward on the Kenai Peninsula, about an hour drive from Anchorage, and well worth it.

View the Photo Essay of our Kenai Fjords Cruise.

Anchorage Museum -

Alaska art, history, science and Native culture, this museum offers a closer look into Alaska.

Alaska Native Heritage Center –

This one looked really cool and I really wanted to visit it. It has an outdoor replication of a real Native village, plus a lot more ‘hands on’ exhibits than a traditional museum – dances, art and culture of the Native peoples of Alaska.

Iditarod Race Trail Start -

The Iditarod race begins in March, and although the start in Anchorage is a ‘fake’ start (the real start is in Wasilla), there’s quite a big ‘to do’ on 4th Street in Anchorage with an introduction of all the racers and their dogs. Definitely something worth doing if you’re willing to brave the cold and the crowds in Anchorage in March.

Driving Alaska: A Pictorial Journey Through the Last Frontier – Sterling Highway Part 1

On May 10th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina / 7 Comments

At the Sterling Highway turnoff to either Anchorage or Seward

Much to the chagrin of Texas, Alaska is the largest state in the Union.

More than double the size, Alaska is a whopping 571,951 sq. miles, compared to Texas’ measly 261,797 sq. miles.

But Texas does have Alaska beat with population. Texas can boast 22,859,968, while the entire state of Alaska houses only 663,661 people.

Alaska’s landscape is composed of rain forest, glacial lakes and rivers, mountains and tundra – and much of it is wet, marshy and swampy, with plenty of bird-sized mosquitoes.

A vast majority of it’s large terrain is uninhabited and accessible only by boat, plane or on foot. Many of the outlying communities are old mining towns or villages of the native tribes, such as the Athabascans or Inuits.

The largest population centers are Anchorage (~ 275,000) and Fairbanks (~30,000)

These major metropolis’ are connected by three major highways – Parks, Richardson and Glenn.

There is also the Sterling Highway which connects Anchorage to the Kenai Peninsula, and the World Famous Alaska Highway which runs from Dawson Creek, British Columbia and officially ends in Delta Junction, Alaska.

As we set out on our Epic Expedition, driving from Alaska to Argentina, we drive from Homer (population 5,400) along the Sterling Highway to Anchorage (population ~275,000).

This view is from the beginning of the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay (not technically on the Sterling Hwy, but pretty close)

Classic sign on Ocean Drive in Homer, which then turns into the Sterling Highway

From the Homer lookout on the hill as you leave town.

We pause for a parting shot as we begin our Epic Expedition and drive out of Homer after almost a year here

Off the Old Sterling Highway, but a point of interest (and the sign was made by one of our sponsors - Custom Lettering & Signs)

All the Sterling Highway between Homer and Soldotna

The Kenai River which runs through Soldotna and passes under the Sterling Highway

Leaving Soldotna at a chainsaw carving park

A bear carved from wood in its den

Everything's bigger in Alaska

The Alaska state bird (real mosquitoes are only slightly smaller)

A big swing by the big mosquito along the Sterling Highway

The Kenai River near Cooper Landing as seen from the Sterling Highway (in fall)

Along Sterling Highway, before the turnoff to Anchorage

View from the turnoff to Anchorage/Seward

Alaska's roads

Portage Glacier can be seen from a turnoff of the Sterling Highway (click this image to view the Photo Essay)

Here’s a list of activities to do in Anchorage, Alaska

Living in Homer, Alaska

On April 28th, 2011 / Alaska / 5 Comments

Homer is the ‘halibut fishing capital of the world’, “a quaint drinking village with a fishing problem” reads one bumper sticker.

Another reminds us that ‘Spit Happens’ (The Spit is a long, narrow point of land extending from the shore into the sea).

But there’s more to Homer than halibut and spit. After nearly a year living in this ‘cosmic hamlet by the sea’, here’s what we know about Homer, Alaska.

There are at least six parts that make up Homer. They consist of:

The Spit - The narrow piece of land that’s too small to be a peninsula. Here you’ll find fine dining at Land’s End with spectacular views of the Kachemak mountains; the ferry dock which can take you across Kachemak Bay to Seldovia, Halibut Cove or even Kodiak Island; countless fishing charters; Captain Patties Seafood and other flavorful restaurants; the boat dock; oodles of shops selling everything from Peruvian sweaters to original Alaskan art (open only during the summer).

Pioneer Avenue - The ‘downtown’ of Homer, here you’ll find popular eateries like Cafe Cups, Don Jose’s, Young’s Oriental, not to mention Subway, or our favorite – Cosmic Kitchen – which serves great Mexican food; more shopping can be found at Blackbeary Bog, Homer Jeans or North Wind; catch a movie at the Homer Theater, just don’t expect it to be anything recently released; view and/or purchase art by local artists at the Fireweed Gallery or Ptarmigan Arts.

East End Road - Home of The Homestead – Homer’s fine dining and fusion cuisine. You’ll also find Wasabi’s Sushi Restaurant, The Gear Shed (where you can get beautiful scarfs for only $12.99), Fitz Creek, McNeil Canyon, and one or two Russian Villages.

Russian Villages – Although they look just like any other group of homes in Alaska, certain areas are designated ‘Russian village’s by the fact that they’re inhabited only by Russian immigrants, and have their own schools and orthodox churches. They can be found out East End Road and on the North Fork.

The Ridge - Elevated above the city of Homer, with a view of Beluga Lake, the Spit and Kachemak Bay, there are two roads the lead up to the ridge – East Hill and West Hill.

Running along the ridge are Skyline Drive and Diamond Ridge. Along these roads you’ll discover the Carl E. Wynn Nature Center, the cemetery, and the radio station, along with many homes, trailers, and yurts among the Alaska wilderness.

Sterling Highway – The road that brings you into town and out to the Spit, this is where you’ll find Safeway; Save-U-More; the gas stations; the banks; McDonalds; Islands & Oceans Visitors Center; Beluga Lake and the Farmer’s Market in the summertime (although technically Lake Street by this point).

Where We Lived:

Living in Homer doesn’t have to be expensive. Especially if you’re willing to get creative and be flexible. My sister was able to house (and dog) sit for several people during her stay here – and even got paid to do it.

Our first ‘home’ was a trailer that was in need of some clean up. In exchange for labor, we got our first month free, and then paid only $300 a month. It was out about 15 miles out of town (only 5 miles from the neighboring town of Anchor Point).

But due to the fact that we couldn’t get internet out there (they would have had to run a DSL line at a significant cost), we decided to move to the ‘city’ where we could get modern conveniences, like 1 mbps internet.

We found a cozy little place right in town, which we were able to ‘rent’ for free, in exchange for labor on a few projects (it’s great that my hubby is so handy).

Never mind that it was only one bedroom- internet, free rent, right in town…what more could a family of seven want?

The Phenomenon:

Whether summer or winter, Alaska offers a lot of cosmic wonders.

In mid summer, the sun sets at 2:00 am and rises at 4:00 am (in Homer). Other parts of Alaska, like Fairbanks and the North Slope, have 24 hours of daylight.

It was incredible to check the clock, thinking it was only 8:00 pm, but discover it was midnight.

Winter can be the exact opposite, where the sun won’t be seen for four months straight up north. In Homer, in the dead of winter expect a sunrise at around 11:00 am, sunset around 4:00 pm (although there are longer hours of twilight).

But the long, dark winter nights provide their own light shows. During our time here we witnessed a lunar eclipse, a ‘supermoon‘ and even saw the Northern Lights (in Homer, not a common occurrence).

Cross that one off my bucket list!

The People:

: Local legend Hobo Jim

With a population of about 5400, that number swells to about 15,000 with an influx of tourists in the summertime who come to ‘the end of the road’ for fishing (halibut and salmon), bear viewing by float plane, glacier hiking across the bay, sailing, or hunting.

The average tourist visit to Homer is three days, and a majority of it is spent on a boat, on The Spit, or on Pioneer Ave (‘downtown’ Homer).

But it’s the locals – the homesteaders – that give Homer her roots.

Performing at Duggans Pub and Restaurant, local legend Hobo Jim sings of life as a homesteader in ‘the last frontier.’

In a way that only music can, his words and melody transport you to another time and place, connects you to generations.

His tunes hypnotize until you feel for yourself the love of working the land; the hard life of a fisherman; the challenge of surviving long, cold winters; the excitement of panning for gold; the thrill of running the Iditarod; and the pride of being a true Alaskan.

The Locals Today - Homer consists of a conglomerate of diverse personalities.

However, despite the differences, there’s very little pretense in Alaska – folks don’t care if you live in a million dollar mansion (not many of those around), a yurt or a trailer on the side of the road (yes people do that here).

It’s okay to wear boots to church- in summer or winter- with your dress (and there’s a surprisingly wide variety of churches to choose from for such a small town).

Nobody cares if your car is clean or dirty, new or old (or missing parts for that matter, there is no emissions or safety inspection in Alaska).

There are a few things the don’t particularly like – such as if you refer to the Lower 48 as ‘The States’, and charge extra for shipping, as though they’re in outer space.

You might be the one who’s in outer space, since they refer to taking a visit to the Lower 48 as ‘going outside’.

The Russians - Sequestered from the ‘American’s', the ‘Old Believers’ aim to maintain their culture and orthodox beliefs by adhering to specific social and religious standards.

The adult men have full beards, the women wear very colorful silk or satin dresses and scarves to cover their heads (married women wear scarves, single women uncover their heads).

They drive modern cars, shop and work at the stores in town, use cell phones, and mostly keep to themselves. Some have no television or internet in their homes, they can speak English, but speak the ‘mother language’ as well.

Many make a living from commercial fishing, but they also own businesses in town. Although stand-offish from the outset, if you get the chance to get to know them, they are very friendly (when he taught them, the Russian teens fondly nicknamed Greg - Grichy).

The Food:

Homer is the place to get great seafood. Salmon, halibut, cod, Dungeness and king crab.

Restaurants in town offer locally (although commercially) caught, flash frozen, 24-48 hour fresh fish or crab. Expect to pay market prices- there’s no discount just because you’re near the point of acquisition.

There’s plenty of great restaurants to choose from. Some of our favorites include Cosmic Kitchen, Captain Patties, Land’s End, Fat Olives and Sourdough Express.

But if you want the freshest fish possible – never frozen, hours fresh- the manna of the sea, you’ll have to catch it yourself or get in with the locals. You’ll never find anything so heavenly as fish that was swimming just a few hours before.

During the salmon runs, the freezers of the locals (and especially the native tribes) are overflowing with fresh salmon. We were the recipients of several gifts of very large, and extremely delicious King and pink salmon, as well as halibut, cod and crab.

You’ve never eaten fish until you’ve eaten it fresh in Alaska. Even people who ‘hate’ fish will LOVE fresh wild-caught salmon or halibut. It’s happened more than once.

But Homer has more than seafood. We’ve eaten moose stew and bear steak, and picked our own wild blueberries with which we created some heavenly crepes, pancakes and pie.

Cost of Living Here (as of April 2011):

4 Bedroom House Rental ~ $1500/mo (or house sit, live in a yurt, park your RV roadside, or camp in a tent – this ain’t the Lower 48)

Cost of gasoline/diesel ~ $4.41/$4.71 a gallon

Dinner for two: Cafe Cups ~ $17-$30/plate; Land’s End (locals night during the winter) ~ $7-$10/plate; Captain Patties ~ All-you-can-eat-prawns $23 (spring); Summertime prices are higher.

Internet for 1 Month: ~$59 for 1 mbps

Groceries:

Milk: $3.89/gallon
Bananas: $1.19/lb
Eggs: $3.29/18
Bread: $3.00/loaf
Boneless/Skinless Frozen Chicken: $3.45/lb
Greek Yogurt (our favorite): $5.30 for 1 pint
Diapers $20 for 60 (we buy in bulk)

Utilities:

Water/Sewer ~$75/month (Homer City charges $45/month in ‘just because’ fees)
Electricity ~ $100/month summer – $300/month winter

Other Benefits of Living in Alaska:

PFD - Permanent Fund Divedend: Alaskan residents receive a share of the government revenues each year. Yes, the Alaska State government actually operates in the black.

Subsistence Allowance - Residents can ‘live off the land’ by harvesting their own firewood (~25 cords a year), dip netting (salmon fishing with a net) and other ‘hunting’ and ‘gathering’ benefits (like shooting moose and bear, gathering wild blueberries, raspberries and blackberries and cutting your own Christmas tree).

Connections & IDEA - Programs that offer money to pay the education costs (materials, lessons, etc.) of homeschooling families ~ $1200-$1900 per child per year.

Photo Essay: Wildlife Viewing on the Kenai Fjords Tour of Resurrection Bay, Alaska

On April 21st, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina, Photography / 11 Comments

View the map of the tour route here.

The sun shines uncharacteristically bright in Seward, Alaska as we descend the gangplank to the boat dock below.

Snow capped mountains rise up from the shore and sea all around us, and boats rock gently in their slips on the glacial blue sea.

We board our vessel – the Orca Voyager – and wait anxiously for our adventure to begin.

Today’s adventure is a Gray Whale Watch with the Kenai Fjords Tour – an expedition that explores Resurrection Bay in search of whales on their annual migration.

Following safety instructions from our captain, we disembark from the dock, and launch into excitement.

The town on Seward on a bright and sunny day (an unusual occurrance I'm told)

A mural in Seward depicting the wonders we'll encounter

Thanks to Chris Palmer who took this shot with his nice camera.

The Seward Boat Dock

Our boat awaits

My cute kids with Grandma and Grandpa and our friend Chris

Leaving the harbor they were excited to see how the boat works

Our vessel - The Orca Voyager

Resurrection Bay

Did you know that otters have between 500,000 - 1,000,000 hairs - per square inch of their body? Compare this to humans who have about 500,000 hairs on their entire body (including your hair).

Otters have no blubber, so it is their super thick, soft fur that keeps them warm. It is also the reason they were hunted to near extinction - because of their very soft pelts

A beautiful day with my beautiful family!

A Dall Porpoise - super fast and hard to catch on camera

I think they look like chubby dolphins - or little Orcas

Did you know that an Orca or Killer Whale is actually a porpoise like these Dall Porpoises and like dolphins?

The captain spotted a humpback - while waiting for it to show itself, we watched the Stellar Sea Lions

Ahhh, scratch that itch...

Where are you humpback?

No humpback, but we did find a gray whale and her calf. They migrate over 5,000 miles from Mexico to the Bering Sea, following the coastline the entire way.

Very elusive and difficult to catch on film - they're not 'showy' like humpback whales.

Somewhere out there that humpback is hiding...

Sea birds spend most of their life on the water. They mostly come to land only to nest.

This bird is the deepest diving flying bird - it can dive 600 feet under the water to catch fish. The only other bird that can dive deeper than it is a penguin - but they are flightless.

He looks very comfortable

So much beautiful scenery - this world is so amazingly large and lovely.

These birds are 'peeling' - the fly down from the cliff in unison and screech - it's used to keep predators from their nests, like eagles and falcons.

Soon they will build their nest right on this cliff face.

During the summer there will be tens of thousands of gulls nesting in this one area of the bay alone.

The last incredible species I saw - I think I'll take it home with me

The Details:

Our tour was a limited time offering – just during the whale migration in April.
But Kenai Fjords Tours offers several amazing cruise options all summer long. Price and inclusions may vary.

Cost: ~$84 for adults, ~$44 for kids 2-11, PLUS taxes and fees.

Includes free lunch (Caesar chicken salad wrap, matchstick carrots, Sweet & Salty granola bar).
Free coffee and tea, and apples (I think they were free??).
They also pass out free fresh baked chocolate chip cookies as you’re returning to dock.
Concession items are offered for sale such as hot chocolate and cider ($1 a pack), sodas and various snacks.

Tips: Bring your own herbal tea or hot chocolate – especially if you’re not a coffee/tea drinker. Hot water is available to make your own.

You could also bring your own snacks and/or (2nd) lunch for those big eaters. The tour was four hours long (average length), and my bunch eats more than they lunch they provided for us in a 4 hour period.

Bring (really) warm clothes – although our cruise was in the spring, with the winds blowing as the boat moves, and the unpredictable weather of Seward, you want to make sure to be warm enough.

There is an indoor cabin with large windows for viewing, but it’s kept only marginally warm. After about two or three hours, I was frozen inside and out and couldn’t get warm until we got back to our truck.

Bring your camera! The captain makes extra effort to get as close as possible (without disturbing the animals), so you can get a good view of them.

Part 2- Photo Essay: The Payoff on Our Great and Terrible Maiden Voyage

On April 19th, 2011 / Alaska, Confessions, Photography / 3 Comments

Isn't this what it's all about?

(Continued from Part 1)

The sun is shining now, but it’s still so cold. Aaliyah wakes up, “Mommy, I’m hungry.” I don’t want to leave my warm covers.

After the second request, I decide I better brave the cold and go gather food for my hungry children.

I think about pioneer women who crossed the plains, gave birth in the back of wagons and buried children under the snow.

As I sit up and put on my double-layered winter parka I reflect, “They never had warm clothes like this to put on. I have no reason to complain.”

We’re all up, eating fruit and bagels. We’re entertained by the ‘boaters’ on frozen Skilak Lake. We walk right out onto the lake and explore the ice, the leaves, the mountains.

Boating in Alaska

A leaf in the ice

Frozen but beautiful nonetheless

Skilak Lake

The sun feels good as it warms our bodies and our minds feel alive as they’re exposed to new things.

This is the experience we’re after! This is why we’re doing this crazy thing.

: A morning visitor

Packing up, we drive toward Seward, our destination for the day, stopping only to take in the stunning vistas.

The day couldn’t be more perfect. The sun is shining, the temperature is temperate.

What a day!

Though we’ve heard rumors that Seward is usually dreary and overcast, today she’s shining in all her mountainous glory.

Seward, Alaska

Seward Boat Dock

Our adventure for the day is the Kenai Fjords Cruise of Resurrection Bay.

We’ll be watching for gray whales, otters and sea lions, porpoises and more. (View the Photo Essay of that trip here.)

Our ship awaits

Our escapade is breathtaking, awe-inspiring and incredible!

We leisurely make our way back home in Homer. Wanting to hike Exit Glacier, we take that turn, but the road is still closed.

Kimball (5) and Daddy wants to do a hike. The baby’s asleep, and I wish I was, but we stop anyway and unload.

Sloshing and sliding uphill through the snow, we reach a plateau with train tracks, snow free.

Natural learning at it’s best, we walk the line, connect our new favorite song (I’ve Been Working on the Railroad) with actual events, learn about how sound travels through the metal track, discover new geological wonders, and learn about train safety.

Walking the line

Discovering how sound travels

We end the day tired, pushing on to home for now, wary and watching to avoid hitting moose at dusk (we spot 10), but are rewarded with a bright and beautiful moonshine.

With a better idea of what we’re getting ourselves into, what ‘challenges’ we’ll face, we’re still eager to begin our Epic Expedition.

: Greg holds the moon

The ending to a perfect day

Our Great and Terrible Maiden Voyage – Testing Out ‘Being Homeless’

On April 19th, 2011 / Alaska, Alaska to Argentina, Confessions / 5 Comments

We ready to do this thing?

Stuffing the last pile of blankets and bedding into the camper shell on the bed of our Ford F250, I chuckle.

We’re supposed to ‘live’ in there? There’s not even enough room to climb in, let alone ‘live’ in.

I mean, that is what we’re doing, right? Undertaking a trek across two continents that will span two years or more.

Basically, we’re planning on being ‘homeless’ and living in our truck for the next two plus years.

Are we crazy?

: Home sweet home?

I question our sanity eyeing the back of our truck overflowing with every last blanket we own, five sleeping bags, a small suitcase of clothing, our ‘kitchen’ box, fuel (used vegetable oil), camping chairs, and who knows what else.

This isn’t even all the stuff we plan on bringing – it’s a test voyage, so we’re leaving a lot at home. How will we ever fit?

Packing up the kids, we drive out of town singing our recommended theme song – “On the road again. Just can’t wait to get on the road again…”

The sun shines brightly in a cloudless sky as we head north toward the city of Soldotna, about an hour and a half away from Homer.

The kids travel well, writing in their notebooks, practicing their spelling. They request a few rounds of I’ve Been Working on the Railroad and She’ll Be Comin’ Round the Mountain.

In town we pick up tonight’s meal – hot dogs and chips by majority vote.

: Weanie anyone?

Later we’ll get a friend who will join us, but for now we might as well set up camp.

Following the advice of a local resident, we try three recommended campsites on the outskirts of town, amidst cries of “I’m hungry! When are we going to go camping?”

One, two and three strikes, we’re out. Closed until May 1st.

Ohhh, the unpredictability of travel. I tell my husband of the story I recently read about getting ‘lost’ in India (despite the title, it’s not vulgar), and we laugh knowing full well the misadventures of voyaging.

We better get re-used to it.

Well, we do the only thing you can do when you are traveling with hungry children and your trying to ‘go with the flow’.

Parking in front of the gate barring our entrance to picnic benches that beckon below, we pull out our camp stove and roast a few hot dogs.

With full bellies and a chance to run around, the kids are much more content. So is mommy. It’s great to be out here where they can run and yell without my constant interruption of ‘Shhh, be quiet,’ ‘Sit still,’ Stop running.’

Kenai River

We pick up our friend Chris, find a home for the night on the banks of Skilak Lake, and set up camp in the dark, a reminder of the late hour, since ‘dark’ doesn’t happen in Alaska this time of year until about 10:30 pm.

Comforting cold and tired children in the cab, I wonder how we’ll manage when Chris isn’t with us. Will Greg set up the tent alone? Will I have to let the kids cry?

I attempt changing a diaper on the back seat. Aaliyah spills a bag of chips on the floor. What do I do with all this garbage now?

Sigh. I guess this is what I need to get used to and figure out.

The tent’s up and a fire is roaring. Baby Atlas sits on my lap, mesmerized by the flames. The moon shines down on us from it’s place in the heavens. Ahhh, contentment.

But soon little one’s yawn, the fire dwindles, the cold is cloaking us on all sides.

Baby, Aaliyah, Kyah and I attempt to get situated in the back of the truck. The boys will be sleeping in the tent.

Without enough clearance to sit upright, I hit my head again and again and again while I try to tuck my two youngest children in – adjusting blankets, tucking, snuggling, readjusting, pulling them off to put on a diaper, then retucking, readjusting, trying to comfort and calm their crying.

This is ridiculous. My back is hurting, my body is shivering, I can hardly move around. Do I really want to do this for the next two years?

That seems like an overwhelming proposition.

I don’t have to do it for the next two years, I only have to do it now. There’s only this moment to deal with, I can handle that.

Kids now sleeping, snuggled under the covers I look at the full moon shining brightly out the window to my left. Isn’t this what it’s about? Isn’t this what we’re after, being closer to nature? To be able to lie in my bed and look out at the stars and the moon?

I close my eyes and drift into sleep, thinking maybe the ‘hardship’ has it’s payoffs.

Awaking hours later, the moon has moved across the horizon and is now to the far right.

All sleep soundly, but the baby’s face and his little hand are like ice, the only parts of his body that are exposed to the arctic night air.

I pull him closer and put the blankets over our heads, ensuring that he doesn’t suffocate.

Tossing, turning, trying to relieve pressure from my hips, trying to stretch out but my ‘bed’ is not long enough, wondering how in heaven Greg is supposed to fit on this ‘bed’ with me when this is our home.

My toes are round little icicles. I try to cover them. Now my back is exposed. I pull the blanket up.

Aaliyah falls off of her elevated bed on top of me. I brave the cold and push her back up, then dive back under my warm covers.

As I drift off to sleep, the blanket falls on the baby’s face and he stirs, cries out. I wake up to hold the blanket up with my arm again, so he can stay covered and warm.

I peek out occasionally and watch the frost slowly start to accumulate on the windows, wondering when the sun will come out and it will be warm enough to escape this frozen hell.

Will this night ever end?

View Photos of the ‘Payoff’ and read more about why it’s all worth it…